Zylia, London W1: ‘It’s not trying to reimagine Greek-Cypriot cuisine’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

It may have only just opened, but this restaurant has about it the feel of a family taverna that’s already been here for about 62 years There’s a brand new Greek-Cypriot taverna in Covent Garden, London, that’s offering taramasalata, souvlaki, spanakopita, kleftiko, kaimaki ice-cream and all the rest. Yet Zylia, which is pale, humbly furnished and deliberately homespun in its styling, somehow has about it the feel of a family taverna that’s been here for about 62 years. You know the sort: up ...

By Grace Dent